A thick layer of epoxy creates a glass-like layer on the wood that gives a nice depth effect. It accentuates the wood's markings and protects the wood from influences of moisture and dirt. This way, your table will always be beautiful! On this information page, we explain step by step which steps to take to treat your wooden table with transparent epoxy resin. We use RESION UV Epoxy Resin for this purpose. This epoxy is crystal-clear and highly resistant to UV light. For castings up to 10 cm, you can use RESION casting resin for large castings.
The manual consists of the following 10 steps:
Finishing your table with a layer of transparent epoxy casting resin has the following advantages:
Casting a tabletop is not difficult, but a number of things need to be taken into account. That is why we have created a comprehensive manual in which we go into every detail. This way, anyone can make a table! Any questions or uncertainties? Then chat live with one of our specialists or email support@polyestershoppen.com.
Materials for the table itself:
Raw materials:
Tools:
Personal protection:
Required conditions:
Build up the table top. You can do this by laying the loose boards against each other with the nice side down. You can make a cross connection in a few places by screwing a batten onto the boards. It is important that the wood you work with is untreated and dry.
Turn the entire top (screwed together) over and finish it as desired. You may want to round off the edges by milling, planing or sanding. The wood can be sanded and/or stained (with water stain). Sand the wood with 120 grit sandpaper.
If there are cracks, chinks and knots in the wood, you can seal them on the underside with tape. This can be done with various types of tape such as packing tape and duct tape. The tape is often easy to remove afterwards and does not adhere to the epoxy. Stubborn residue can be removed with a triangular scraper and/or sandpaper.
If there are many holes and cracks in the table, as was the case with us, you can also cover the top with glass fabric. "Primer" the wood with RESION UV Epoxy Resin first and let it cure well. After curing, sand the epoxy and then apply glass fabric 200 gram/m² with epoxy. Then apply another layer of epoxy. The entire underside is thus liquid-proof and an added benefit is that the table is also more solid.
As we will be pouring epoxy over the top, we need to make sure it cannot run off the top. For small tables, a raised edge could be made with duct tape. For larger tables, we recommend making a "formwork" around the table. This can be done with wooden slats or, for instance, aluminium or plastic corner profiles. Cover the profiles or wooden slats with packing tape and screw the formwork around the top.
This way, cast epoxy will stay on the leaf. The packing tape gives you a smooth finish on the side and makes the formwork easy to remove later.
Place a plastic sheet on the ground. In case some epoxy does leak, you won't damage the ground this way. Set up the table with trestles or on its own legs. Check that the table is horizontal, not slanted and not twisted. Measure this with a spirit level. Epoxy will always level out and if your table is not completely straight, this is a waste.
It is now time to apply the first epoxy. We first apply a thin layer of epoxy that serves two purposes: first, it is a primer layer so that the wood becomes airtight. This prevents air bubbles from the wood getting into the moulding layer later. We also use this small amount of epoxy to make the tray watertight so that the casting layer cannot run off.
Prepare a small amount of casting epoxy by accurately weighing the resin and hardener on a scale and mixing very well using the 2-cup mixing method. The casting epoxy has a mixing ratio of 100:60. The quantity to be made depends on the size of the table. Count on about 400 grams of epoxy per square metre. Before calculating the correct amount of resin and hardener, make the following calculation.
First roll a thin layer over the wood with a velour roller. This is how you seal the wood. You can also perform this step before making the formwork. When the epoxy has cured for at least 10 hours and the formwork is around the table, you can use a new epoxy mixture to seal cracks and holes. Make sure you vent the epoxy with a gas burner.
We now allow this layer to cure. Depending on the temperature, this takes 8 to 24 hours. At low temperatures, it may take even longer for the epoxy to fully cure. Any epoxy that leaks through cracks should be caught. It's best to mark that spot, then you'll know to watch out for it during the next pour.
If no leakage has occurred, then a thick layer of epoxy can now be poured. Go to step 8. If there was still some leakage, you should first brush these areas with a small amount of UV Epoxy Resin again with a flat brush, so that these areas also become liquid-tight.
Depending on the type of wood, the wood may have become quite rough. This roughness may retain air bubbles. Therefore, lightly sand the surface with 120-grit sandpaper. If everything is sealed, smooth and dust-free, then pouring can be done.
Pour at least 2 mm but not more than 10 mm thick at a time. Prepare a sufficient quantity of epoxy, as described earlier. Make sure this epoxy is mixed very carefully. Pour this epoxy spread out over the table. The epoxy will flow all over the table. If necessary, the epoxy can be helped a little with a brush or stirring stick. It is not a problem if the epoxy is poured in several batches, so you can make a few kilos each time, for example.
Now let the epoxy rest for about 10 minutes. This gives air bubbles a chance to come all the way to the surface. After about 10 minutes, the last air bubbles can be removed from the surface with a gas burner. Use a gas burner to direct the flame onto the surface and move it back and forth quickly. Work the entire surface in this way. Keep moving the flame and do not use it for too long. A 1 m2 table will be able to be flamed in 30 seconds. The flame causes the epoxy to pull completely tight.
Now let the epoxy cure properly. This takes at least 24 hours, at lower temperatures it may take even longer. After curing, assess the casting. If it is still not thick enough, another layer can be applied. This can also be done if the layer shows defects that cannot be removed by local polishing, if, for example, large insects have got into the epoxy or if there is extremely high dust. In this case, the table should first be roughened up with sandpaper grain 180. Degrease the top with acetone before proceeding with casting.
After applying the casting layer(s), remove the formwork around the table. Now the table can be finished. You can sand and polish the edges or reapply RESION UV Epoxy Resin with a brush.
There are two options for the top of the table. If the table is to be placed outside, we strongly recommend varnishing it with a UV-resistant lacquer, such as DD Lacquer. This is also available in silk gloss. Sand the top along the surface and edges with 280-grit paper and lacquer the top with DD lacquer using a foam roller.
Alternatively, sand the table from 240-grit and slowly build up to 1500-2000-grit with water. After it is sanded, it can be polished with coarse and then fine polish. This should give a deep shine to the table. With sanding, you can slightly round off the edges if necessary.
The underside of the table can be finished at least 2x with epoxy. Turn the table over and remove any tape. Now apply a layer of epoxy. Let it harden, sand the underside lightly with 120-grit paper and apply another layer of epoxy. The underside of the table is now also smooth and protected from external influences.
I don't want screw holes in the side of the table.
Use an aluminum corner profile or a wooden corner profile to form the formwork.
I want a thick layer of epoxy along the edge of the table
Use an aluminum corner profile or a wooden corner profile to form the formwork. Adjust it to the desired thickness of the side.
I have burl grains in the table which are larger than the width of my tape.
Use a piece of wood covered with packaging tape to seal the burl grains.
My formwork keeps leaking. What should I do?
Apply another layer of epoxy along the formwork and let it harden. If necessary, seal a stubborn leak with acrylic sealant.
The epoxy hardens only very slowly.
Check that the correct mixing ratio has been used. Work at sufficient temperature (16 degrees or more).
The epoxy sticks or remains soft in some places. How do I solve this?
The epoxy has not been sufficiently mixed. Remove soft epoxy with acetone, let it evaporate and pour a new layer.
The epoxy remains soft everywhere.
Wrong mixing ratio. Remove the epoxy, and pour a new layer.
Do you have a specific question? Call one of our specialists for free advice +3185 0220090
